Due to the continuing pandemic, your car is probably seeing a lot less use. You might not have started it in weeks, maybe even months depending on where you live. Problem is, cars are designed to be used, and leaving them to gather dust can permanently damage the complex machinery that makes them function. If you plan on an extended period of not driving your car, there are several steps you need to take to ensure that when you want to drive it again, it will work.
Before I go on, the best solution is to drive at least once a week. Take it out for a minimum of fifteen minutes and just drive around. Don’t get out. Listen to some music, maybe a podcast. It’ll help stave off cabin fever too. But if you need to leave it inoperative for an extended period, follow these instructions.
Due to the continuing pandemic, your car is probably seeing a lot less use. You might not have started it in weeks, maybe even months depending on where you live. Problem is, cars are designed to be used, and leaving them to gather dust can permanently damage the complex machinery that makes them function. If you plan on an extended period of not driving your car, there are several steps you need to take to ensure that when you want to drive it again, it will work.
Before I go on, the best solution is to drive at least once a week. Take it out for a minimum of fifteen minutes and just drive around. Don’t get out. Listen to some music, maybe a podcast. It’ll help stave off cabin fever too. But if you need to leave it inoperative for an extended period, follow these instructions.
1.Clean your car, inside and out
It might seem strange to wash your car before sticking it into storage. Do it anyway. Bird droppings and other stains on the outside can permanently damage the paint if you leave them to sit. On the inside, you want to make sure there’s nothing edible lurking beneath the seats. Food attracts vermin, and that’s a serious problem we’ll get more into later.
2. Fill ‘er up
Top off your tank. A partially-filled tank can be susceptible to rust, and the seals can dry out. One thing to keep in mind is that gasoline only lasts from three to six months before oxidization renders it useless. So, when you want to drive, it’s possible that the gas in your tank won’t get you anywhere. When that happens, you’ll need to drain your tank (carefully, and in a well-ventilated area), and fill it with fresh gas.
3. What to do about the oil
Get an oil change and engine flush. Change every filter you can. You’re going to need another oil change when you return the car to operate.
4. Battery
The battery should not be connected, but you have some options. You can remove the whole thing, which is the safest bet. If you’re not comfortable doing that, the minimum you can do is disconnect the battery’s negative cable. You’re trying to keep your battery from being drained, which can still happen even when the car is turned off. Incidentally, this isn’t a bad thing to do even when you go on vacation.
5. Take care of the tires
A car left inoperative for a long period can develop flat spots on the tires. The best solution is to put the car up on axle stands or blocks, remove the wheels entirely, and deflate the tires.
If you can’t put your car up on blocks, just be aware that there could be long term damage to the tires. When you park it for the last time, do not engage your parking brake as brake pads can fuse with the rotors. Instead, put bricks or chocks in front of and behind the tires to keep it from rolling away.
6. Keep it out of the weather, one way or the other
Storing your car inside is ideal. If you don’t have a garage at home, it might be worth it to find an indoor lot with long term parking. If you can’t store it inside, get a weatherproof car covering. autoguide.com recommends the Platinum Car Shield from carcovers.com.
In any case, keep the windows cracked to prevent condensation from building up inside.
7. Your insurance should be up to date
Many insurance companies will levy penalties on accounts that have gaps in coverage. So, while it may save you money in the short term to let your insurance lapse, it’s better in the long term of your pay. Also, companies will often offer discounts for these inactive periods. Considering you’re paying them for pretty much nothing, it’s the least they can do.
8. And the grossest problem: vermin
Mice and other vermin can find their way into cars, either looking for food or a safe place to hide. The last thing you want is to open up your car and find a nest of rats staring back at you like, “The car is ours now, human. Find another one.”
Remember step one, where you cleaned out the food? I’m bringing it up again. Also, look for places mice can get intakes and the exhaust pipes are two obvious spots. Plug these with some steel wool.
Then get cotton balls or mothballs, and dip them in peppermint oil. Surround your car with them, and refresh them every couple of weeks. If you want, you can bolster the defenses with mousetraps or poison, but in that case, you’re going to want to keep a closer eye on the environs. The last thing you want is the smell of decaying animal seeping into your upholstery.
9. Bringing it back
Once this national nightmare ends, you’re going to want to drive again. First, check your car for those vermin we talked about. You don’t want to be surprised while the car is in motion. Remove the steel wool from wherever you put it too. If you’re as absent-minded as I am, it wouldn’t hurt to write down the locations.
If you're not driving your car regularly, the oil can deteriorate thanks to fluctuations in temperature. For a car that sits for long stints, you should switch from a mileage-based oil-change interval to a time-based structure. Change the oil every six months, even if you're well ahead of the manufacturer-stated mileage interval for a regularly scheduled oil change, especially if you are starting the vehicle or driving it occasionally during storage. If the vehicle won't be started while sitting, it's a good idea to change the oil before starting it for the first time to get any water condensation out of the oil.
Drivers who plan to keep their car sitting for an extended period should fill up the gas tank beforehand. This will help reduce condensation inside the tank caused by weather fluctuations. If the tank is full, gasoline should last about six months, according to Greenspan. Diesel can last six months to a year on a fresh, full tank. E85 degrades faster, especially when it has a higher alcohol content, and typically lasts less than six months if you're not driving regularly. A storage-focused fuel additive like Sta-Bil is a good idea for short-term storage, but if the vehicle will be stored for a very long time it may be a better idea to drain the tank and the fuel linesâ eventually, much fuel goes bad no matter what you add to it. Draining fuel can be dangerous, so make sure you're using a proper drainage procedure and you're disposing of or storing the drained fuel properly.
The engine belt, and any other critical rubber under your car's hood, will eventually break down, but the timing of this degradation is highly variable. Most belts and hoses are expected to last quite a long time, but as with other vehicular components, disuse can cause problems. While some of this is dependent on the parts' condition before you park the car, rubber can dry out and crack, causing leaks or weakening belts. We suggest checking these items before parking your car and again before taking it out of storage.
As with other things on this list, how to maintain your battery depends on whether you'll be driving or running the car at all during storage. If you'll start or drive it periodically, the battery may not need any additional maintenance. A short drive (just long enough to get the oil up to temperature, which evaporates any condensation in the oil) will suffice to keep the battery topped up and the oil in good shape. If that's not possible, a trickle charger is a great alternative—we recommend microprocessor-controlled units that can determine what type of battery you have so it can charge it appropriately. If you have an absorptive glass mat (AGM) or lithium-ion starting battery, you'll want to be extra sure you're using an appropriate charger.
It's usually possible to leave the battery in place, and many trickle chargers have quick-disconnects making it easy to unplug to use the car. You can also remove the battery and charge it in a more convenient location. A quick note on battery removal: Be sure to consult your owner's manual before starting this task, especially if your vehicle's audio system has a security code you must input for it to work after losing power. Sure, your battery will be topped off, but who wants to miss out on their tunes because they couldn't find their radio code ahead of time?